Epi pop-up restaurant at Kitchen Garden Cafe - 25th February 2014

I love going out for dinner on a "school-night" and a pop-up restaurant at the Kitchen Garden cafe, just 10 minutes down the road was a perfect excuse for date night with Guy. I've eaten breakfast and lunch at the Kitchen Garden before and I think it's a lovely, homely venue... arriving at night through the twinkling courtyard and the atmosphere was definitely different and more in keeping with an evening restaurant service. I'd spoken to the chef, Nathan Eades, via Twitter and he'd kindly replaced the woodcock on the menu with sea bass for me, and had even swapped the fennel (one of just a few foods I avoid!) with baby gem, but otherwise both Guy and I enjoyed the same fantastic tasting menu.

On arrival we had a couple of relaxed drinks (Chenin Blanc for me, lovely and crisp; and a San Miguel for Guy) while enjoying a delicious amuse bouche - think of a more refined bruschetta with mackerel, wasabi and tomato (for me) and ham hock instead of mackerel (for Guy). Nathan came out to the restaurant and introduced himself and his concept, which was lovely; as well as being a talented chef he's a nice chap too!

We moved across to our table where some simple unflavoured bread and butter was served - delicious and a good indication that what was to come was going to be a real appreciation of good ingredients. And so it was... The salt cod was just perfect along with the baba ganoush (a real favourite of mine!) in the first course proper.

The description of the cauliflower dish on the menu kept us guessing, but again a simple ingredient was made to shine in such skilled hands. Cooked in a number of different ways, the tempura style was my personal favourite!

Onto our mains and another course that really delivered on flavour and precise execution. The spelt risotto was really warming comfort food, and my sea bass and Guy's woodcock were cooked to perfection. We're both celeriac fans anyway, but what a surprise to find the brussel sprout leaves packing a real punch. Guy was enjoying the sauce ("glaze", maybe, if we're getting cheffy) with the woodcock so much I thought he might start to lick it off the plate!

The high bar had been set, and whilst I didn't feel the dessert hit the same level (slightly lukewarm rice pudding and a flavour that reminded me of shredded wheat... not necessarily a bad thing), it wasn't an unpleasant end to the evening.

In any case we opted to finish on a high note with petits fours, coffee and a brandy. The petits fours were a nice touch, a lovely rich chocolatey one, which was a treat with the coffee and brandy along with (in my words at the time) one that tasted like "a posh iced gem".

We're already contemplating a return visit when Epi returns to Kings Heath at the end of March, and looking forward to tasting some more of Nathan's cooking.